Drilled and Primed Bulkheads

Today I spent a couple of hours drilling and dimpling the aft bulkheads, and then a couple more hours priming several parts.

I used the drill block to match drill several holes from one of the bulkheads into the Vertical Stabilizer, the block was a huge help to ensure these were perpendicular to the bulkhead web. I was happy with how they turned out. Three of the holes will get final drilled to #12 and will take bolts that hold the vertical stabilizer to the fuselage. Any error in the hole orientation will effect the aerodynamics of the VS.

I needed to dimple the flanges of two bulkheads, but due to the angle of the flange, there is no way to get a female die on the inboard side of the flange. I have a spare squeezer yoke, so I cut off the end with a hacksaw, then ground it down to a small cross section. With the modified yoke, I was able to squeeze the dimples.

Modified yoke for dimpling angles flanges
Modified yoke clears the bulkhead web and the female die sits flush with the inside of the flange

In the evening I primed several parts for the aft bulkheads. The new hi-flow connectors made a significant difference. I used less paint, and the finish was much better. The paint atomized into much finer particles, covering the parts more evenly. The compressor was working harder, and I had to wait for it to catch up a few times.

About to start priming the aft bulkheads

It’s hard to tell from the photos, but the finish is significantly improved.

Primed bulkhead. The finish is much improved with the hi-flow connectors

Air Hoses and Drill block

After a few days in Texas, I spent time tonight getting ready to drill some critical holes, and to prime some parts.

I picked up a drill block from Brown Tools and practiced using it on some scrap. Pretty straight forward, and makes it very easy to be perpendicular to the surface when drilling holes. This block is for #30, #40, #21 and #10 drill bits.

Drill block and scrap for practice
Practicing on scrap

I also swapped out my air hose connectors, replacing them with hi-flow fittings. I ordered all of these from Amazon. You can really see the difference in diameter of the connectors when comparing them to the standard connectors. I also replaced my air filter with a smaller in-line filter, and removed a few unnecessary fillings. The idea is to increase air flow through the paint gun, and to maintain pressure when the trigger is pulled. More air flow should result in a better paint finish. Hopefully will test this out tomorrow.

New air filter on paint gun
Old connector on left, new hi-flow connector on the right

Finally, I got my VS down and clecoed the bulkhead that will be match drilled. This is all set for drilling tomorrow.

Bulkhead work

I skipped ahead a little, as I’m waiting on a drill block to help with some of the drilling where alignment is critical. I worked on the F-01410 bulkhead; deburred, stepped-drilled a systems hole, fluted and dimpled the F-01410 bulkhead. Then I straightened and final drilled the 1/4 in holes in the F-01410C, then clecoed it ready for final drilling.

Then I clecoed the F-01411 Bulkhead ready for final drilling.

These two bulkheads will hold the horizontal stabilizer onto the fuselage, so there is a lot of reinforcing here.

Deburring bulkheads

I put in a couple of hours tonight deburring parts. Not much to report. It’s a straightforward process, but can be a bit slow going, especially where there are corners. I almost finished deburring the aft three bulkheads, but started falling alseep, so calling it for today. Of course most of these parts will need final drilling and then more deburring, but that is a relatively quick process.

Deburring

I spent a couple of hours today deburring parts for the aft two bulkheads. I also finished shaping the rudder stops.

Deburring was straightforward, except for the flanges at the bottom on the bulkhead, where there is a very small gap. I picked up some Emory cloth to squeeze in between the tighter spots, otherwise I used files and edge deburring tools. I still need to final drill some of the holes, but I’m waiting on a drill block that will help ensure the holes are exactly perpendicular, since some of them receive fine-tolerance bolts that hold the vertical stabilizer.

Finishing the rudder stops involved some more filing. I clamped my vixen file to the bench and this helped ensure a straight edge.

I also modified a countersink cage to allow me to countersink the rudder stops. There is very little clearance between the flange and the hole. Also on-order is a 3/8 inch countersink bit to allow enough clearance (typically they are 1/2 inch).

Fabricating attach bar and rudder stops

I spent a couple of hours this week working on fabricating the horizontal Stabilizer attach bar support angle, and the rudder stops. I used a combination of the band saw, vixen file, and small files to get the shape as close as possible to the drawings. I’m still not completely done, but these are pretty close. The vixen file has been great at getting a nice clean flat surface, it makes the job much easier. Once these are final shape, I need to countersink some of the holes, then they will be ready to be primed.

Aft Fuselage

I spent some time cleaning and reorganizing the garage, including building a couple of storage racks for the elevators. I stored them out of the way and then put some loose zip ties on to keep them from falling off.

Then it was time to start on the aft fuselage, and I was able to complete the first few steps, separating parts and straightening a couple of stiffeners.

Several of these pieces were snipped or hack-sawed into separate pieces, including the plastic rudder cable guides. In the picture you can see the open crate in the background. I’ve been storing the skins and stringers in there for months, and it’s good to start pulling them out.

I trimmed and final drilled a few pieces, and then straightened these doublers. Here you can see the “before and after” where one piece is straightened and one is how it arrived. These bend as a result of the hole punching process. Straightening involves putting them in the vice, putting some tension on the part, then pounding with a rubber mallet. The majority of time is spent fine tuning, and having some patience is important.