The final step in the brake and rudder system is to hook up the cables to the pedals and then install the the cable guides. I counter sync the cable guides, and pop riveted them in place.
Cable Guide install
Brake Line Install
With the rudder pedals installed, I moved onto the brake lines. I studied the Beringer documentation for a while, and then re-read the Aircraft Specialty documents. I started by routing the cables and doing up the fittings finger tight. I realized I would need to step drill the second lightening hole on the rudder bar support. It was a quick effort to step it up to 11/16ths to fit a 750-10 bushing.
With everything routed and looking good, I final torqued the lines, then plugged the two openings on the front of the firewall with plastic caps.
Rudder pedal install
Tonight I installed the rudder pedals. They are held on each end using blocks of hard plastic, and with one block in the middle. I was able to get the bolts into position without too much difficulty. They have an adjustment, and can be moved into three positions depending the the length of the pilot’s legs. I set to the middle position for now.
Firewall fittings and rudder cables
Tonight was a busy night. My friend Simon came over to help me rivet the firewall flanges, and to torque up the nuts on the fuel line.
We were able to quickly and easily rivet the fittings on. I had to modify one of my rivet gun fittings to grind down one side, allowing it to fit squarely onto the head of the rivet without touching the fitting. Because the rivets were essentially glued in place, I numbered the rivets so we could just call out which rivet we were setting.
Torquing the fuel line required Simon on the front of the firewall with a wrench holding the correct clocking while I cranked up the torque inside. With that done, I installed the flexible fuel line and torqued it also.
Next, I installed the NPT fittings into the brake fittings, including the T fitting connecting to the reservoir. I used Loctite 565. I torqued up these fittings, doing two full turns beyond the initial point of resistance. Getting the clocking right on the t fitting took two attempts.
Then I moved onto the flap motor. This required a carefully drilled hole to hold some safety wire. The drilling wasn’t too hard, and the hole turned out exactly how I wanted.
With the hole drilled, I then installed the motor into the fuselage.
Then finally, I routed the rudder cables forward, and secured the polyethylene tubes in place using adel clamps. These protect the spar from the rudder cable, so they are carefully positioned to do so. Getting the nuts onto the bolts was challenging, but I found it possible using tape to hold the washer and nut, and then rotating the bolt until it caught.
Flap torque arms
Tonight I drilled the flap torque arms, then installed them into the fuselage.
The flap motor sits between the pilot and passenger, oriented almost vertically. The motor connects to a lever that rotates an arm that extends under the seats out to the wing root on each side.
The arms are match drilled to the center fitting using a template (same one used for the wings). I had to slowly step up the drill size because the steel was grabbing the drill bits.
Once the arms were drilled, it was disassemble and install into the fuselage. Some grease helped squeeze the arms through the plastic blocks and into position.
