Fuselage wiring harness

Tonight I finished routing the wiring harness. I was able to connect the headset jacks, the control stick, and the flap motor. Still to-do is the flap position sensor, the baggage light, and then working out how to tension the wires to stop them moving around.

Most of the work was a repeat of the right hand side. The time was spent fishing wires through the various ribs, then installing bushings. Because the connectors are already installed on the harness, the routing needs some patience. It also means the the bushings all need to be sliced in one place so that they can be spread apart and installed over the wires, then inserted into their locations in the ribs.

The flap position sensor is on backorder from Vans, but installation looks simple enough. The baggage light needs some thought and research, as this is not in the plans. I need to decide where to route the wires, where to place the light(s), which light I need, and where to locate the switch.

Fuselage wiring harness

Tonight I started on the left-hand side wiring harness, and was able to run the wiring through to the stick. Hopefully I can get close to finishing tomorrow, although it might take another day or so. In addition to the headset jacks, the flap motor and baggage compartment light wiring needs to be installed before it’s done.

Fuselage wiring harness

Tonight I finished installing the right hand side harness. I drilled holes for the headset jacks, installed them, and then installed the 12v power socket and aux audio plug.

The headset jacks need to be isolated from the airframe, so I measured and enlarged one of the two holes to fit the spacer washer. Then I located and enlarged a new hole for the LEMO jack, and installed all of the jacks on the right hand side. I covered the ports with electrical tape to prevent debris from building up.

With that done, I moved to the 12v power port and headset jack. The 12v socket installed easily, and I had that installed quickly. The aux audio port was wired for a molex plug, but the small pins were very annoying to work with. I decided to use d-sub pins and sockets to connect the port, and that worked out much better. If the port ever needed to be replaced, the heatshrink can be carefully sliced open, and the pins separated.

The harness extending all the way aft and plugging into the tail cone harness. There’s a little bit of slack in this section, so once I have the other end hooked up to the panel, if the slack remains, I’ll secure with adel clamps.
The harness extends outboard to the wing root. Just before it passes outboard, the headset jacks branch off.
Headset jack holes. This is actually the left hand side, but it’s a mirror image of the right.
Headset jacks installed
12v power socket installed
D-sub pins connecting the aux audio port to the harness, instead of the molex connector

Fuselage Wiring Harness

Tonight I started installing the WH-00125 fuselage wiring harness. Avionics Systems are building my panel, and shipped me the wiring harnesses. There are standard harnesses with a couple of modifications, one for the FlyELD lights, and the other for a baggage compartment light.

The install is straightforward. Because all of the connectors are already wired up, I can route the cables, then cut slots in the bushings so I can slip them over the wire bundle, and insert into the ribs and bulkheads.

I didn’t get a picture, but I was able to complete most of the right hand side wiring hardness install. I still need to locate and drill a hole for the LEMO headset port, and wire up the aux-audio and 12-volt power port.

WH-00125 hardness I’m the shipping box
Starting to route the right hand side wiring

Canopy Release

On Friday last week I started the remote canopy release modification, and I wrapped it up last night.

The original canopy release mechanism has a handle in the middle of the panel, towards the top. The handle is one end of a steel rod, and the other end is connected to a lever that sits behind the sun-panel. That lever drives a simple mechanism that extends and retracts the canopy hinge pins.

The downside of this approach is the loss of usable space on the panel. So Vans created a modification to relocate the handle. By using a cable instead of a steel tube, the handle can be placed anywhere. The recommended location is forward of the fuel selector valve, in a recessed area.

The modification was quite straight forward, and over several evening sessions I was able to wrap it up. I’ll have to remove the covers again so I can install the fuselage wiring harness, but that should be an issue.

Cover with cutout area marked up
After cutting the cover, riveting the recessed area, painting, and installing on the cover. This is where the handle will sit
Installing the new bracket. To assist, I rolled the fuselage upside down making access much easier.
Handle with hole drilled for safety wire
The mechanism removed and ready to be modified
The lever is reoriented in this mod. Here I’ve drilled the new holes and reinstalled the lever in it’s new orientation
Mechanism reinstalled with new lever positioning
A close up of the modification needed to allow the action to clear the ribs. I carefully enlarged the holes per the plans, allowing 1/8 clearance between the ribs and the moving parts
Handle painted and installed. Unfortunately the paint is already flaking off, so I will likely replace with some yellow vinyl tape.

Seals

Last night and tonight I installed the remaining canopy seals. I decided to remove the canopy from the plane so I could get better access, and that made the job much easier.

Forward canopy seals
Canopy seals
Just visible at the bottom of the canopy rail is the side seal
Side seal installed

Canopy seals

Tonight I installed one of the canopy seals and cut others to shape. The seal went in surprisingly easily, and I was able to torque up the final 20-odd nuts securing the canopy along the aft edge.

Aft canopy seal installed, and all canopy nuts are now final torqued
Side view of the seal, looking forward towards the panel.

Fairing sanding

Tonight I feathered the forward edge of the canopy fairing down to the aluminum skin. I decided to leave this where it is for now, and have Dad check it out when he visits in July.

I moved on and installed the canopy unsafe micro switch, and the avionics fans on the glare-shield. None of these are wired up yet, I’ll get to that later.

Two avionics fans, which are cheap and simple cpu-cooling fans.
Close up of one of the fans
Canopy-unsafe micro switch housing
Micro switch visible in the housing. The left side canopy locking pin pushes through the canopy frame a depresses the switch when latched. This will send a signal to the G3 system to indicate when the canopy of closed and locked, and when it is unlatched and unsafe for flight

Fairing sanding

Tonight I sanded the fairing, and was able to complete shaping it, and sanding to a feathered edge on both the bottom and top edges. I then applied a coat of resin to fill in all the pin holes and to gave a smooth surface to finish sanding. It took a while using 150 grit sandpaper, but it wasn’t that difficult. It will be good to see it tomorrow with some fresh eyes.

Top layers of tape removed, feathering the top edge, bottom (forward) edge is done
Mostly done on the sides
Cleaned and ready for the coat of resin

Fairing sanding

Tonight I sanded the micro balloons I had applied a couple of days ago. It’s helping build up the low spots and evening out the surface of the fairing.

After I was done sanding, I applied some more micro balloons to fill in some more low spots. After I sand this latest round, it should be getting close to final shape.

Sanding…
After cleaning with alcohol, the low spots are easy to see.