Canopy hinge covers

Tonight I countersunk and riveted the wear strips, then made and test-fit the canopy hinge covers.

The hinge covers needed some minor adjustment to fit. I needed to file the edges of the F-01455C seal angles to allow the hinge covers to slide past with no interference. Mostly it was removing pro seal that had bulged into the gap, then maybe half a mm off one side.

The left side canopy wear strip installed
Canopy hinge cover and the slot it will occupy once installed. There are more steps to manufacture the cover, including a retaining clip. Then final installation doesn’t happen until the canopy is installed for the final time. These are designed to pop off if an unplanned canopy jettison is needed
Sitting in place over the hinge

Aft canopy seal retainers and wear strips

Tonight I painted the rear canopy seal, seal retainers. Then I installed the screws and hardware along the back edge of the canopy.

I then fabricated the canopy wear strips and match drilled to the canopy side rails.

I had forgotten to dimple the last two holes on the canopy side skins, but luckily the underlying canopy rail had been countersunk (thanks Dad!), so I could easily dimple the skin in place using my hand squeezer.

Instead of turning the canopy inside down to install the seal retainers, per the instructions, I taped the washers onto the screws. This seemed to work fine, and saved the hassle of trying to flip the canopy over by myself late at night while all my helpers are sleeping
With the tape removed, and the fasteners across the top (zone 1) torqued
The canopy wear strip cleoed into position. These just need countersinking then I can rivet in place.

Canopy handles and seals

Today I finished riveting the canopy side skins, including the handles. Then I found the aft canopy seal, marked out and cut the notches.

I primed the canopy seal straps, then laid them on top of the seal, marking out the location of each hole, where a canopy attach screw will pass through the seal. With the holes marked, I used a leather punch and a craft knife to cut out the areas where screws will pass through the seal. Sounds more complicated than it is, and everything went smoothly.

Canopy handle riveted on
I had to clamp the seal down with the seal strap on top to keep it from moving. The seal had been cooked in a bag for 18 months and keeps springing back into a coil
Marking the holes to be cut on the seal
The cutouts on the trailing edge of the seal

Riveting canopy side skins

Tonight I completed most of the riveting for the canopy side skins. The angles got a little awkward a few times, and I made a couple of mistakes where the bucking bar moved off the rivet head. I’ll go back and fix those tomorrow, and then rivet on the handles.

Right side, rivets set
Inside on the left. a couple of rivets to replace tomorrow. Note the wiring, I ran this before riveting on the side skins to avoid needing to fish the wires through later

Riveting canopy side skins

Tonight I loosely installed the hardware along the canopy side skins, then started riveting the side skins.

No great surprises here. It took some fiddling around to get my rivet squeezer oriented in a way that I could squeeze the rivets. I only had time to set 8 rivets in the end, but it should be quicker now that I’ve dialed things in.

Setting the first few rivets on the side skins
Hardware attached (loosely), and riveting has started.

Canopy fairing

Tonight I marked out the forward and aft canopy fairing lines and applied tape to form the edge and protect the areas adjacent to the fairing. This involves a combination of measuring and using some templates. The next step is to remove material from the forward edge of the canopy, reducing the profile of the fairing. Then scuffing the area where the fairing needs to adhere to both the forward skin and the canopy.

Using templates to trace the forward edge of the canopy fairing
Checking to see if more material is needed to be removed from the edge of the canopy
Scuffing the surface between the forward and aft edges of the canopy fairing

Canopy

Today I fit the side skins on the canopy. I needed to make some adjustments to break the edge evenly, as the dumpling process had flattened out the edge near the dimples.

One thing I read was that it’s best to run the wiring for the canopy latch micro switch before riveting the side skins on. So I dug up the canopy wiring fit and ran the two wires that are needed to operate the switch. then I clecoed on the side skins.

Wiring for the canopy latch micro switch

Countersinking and canopy side skins

Tonight I finished countersinking all the holes in the canopy, and dimpled the canopy side skins.

I had actually jumped ahead in the plans because I wanted to avoid taking the canopy on and off repeatedly to avoid scratches. Next I’ll be reinstalling the canopy on the frame, then marking out the location of the canopy fairing.

Side skin edges broken, and screw holes dimpled
Countersunk holes along the left side bottom edge where the left side skins will fit

Painting and countersinking

Last night I finally finished painting the cockpit area and the canopy frame. It took a lot of touch-up coats to ensure all the surfaces were covered, and it was more time consuming than I anticipated.

The last thing I did was strip off the primer I had painted on the outside of the forward canopy skin. I had painted this in a somewhat absent-minded moment earlier in the canopy frame construction. The aft part of the skin is painted mat black to minimize reflections on the canopy.

Canopy frame painted. The forward canopy is painted flat black to minimize reflections on the canopy

With the painting done, I peeled off the paper and tape, and was happy with the way everything turned out. It’s far from perfect, but it’s adequate for me given my limited experience and sub-optimal painting environment.

Safely out of the way.

To keep it out of the way, I moved the frame back onto the airplane, then set the canopy onto the workbench. I then countersunk all of the holes along the trailing edge for #6 screws. I used some vinyl tape on the countersunk cage which helped stop any rotation and scratching.

Countersinking the after edge
Some of the countersunk holes

Paint

Over the last couple of days I’ve been painting the cockpit, and the canopy frame. I’m using stewart systems’ finish coat, battleship grey, and adding some flattener to get a flat finish.

I’m still learning as I go, and feel like I’m gradually getting a more consistent application. It’s still far from perfect, but it’s good enough for what I need. I’ve needed to tweak the amount of water I’m using to thin the paint because of the flattener. Less water seems to be the way to go to avoid runs and splotches. Waiting for 15 minutes between thin fog coats helps to build up the color and result in a consistent looking finish. Good lighting helps a lot.

At this point I have one more coat to apply to the roll bar, but otherwise it’s done for now. Hoping to finish this paint job tonight.

I started by painting the glare shield flat black
Painting the rest of the canopy frame battleship grey