Tonight I unpacked the fuel controller and installed it on the engine. This required some research, as there isn’t any documentation from the Lycoming or Airflow Performance in the box. I found some help on Vansairforce, and was able to find the Airflow Performance manual. I ended up emailing them anyway, because I don’t have a gasket in the box.
For now I installed the unit using the temporary nuts to hold it in place, so I can test fit the snorkel.
Cover plate as-shipped from LycomingCover plate and seal removedFuel control unitInstalled on the engine, temporary
Today I spent time adjusting the front baffles to fit nicely against the engine case. The front left baffle took the most adjusting, and after several iterations I was happy with the fit.
With the baffles fitting nicely I went ahead and installed the hardware and torqued everything up. I have run out of -40 star washers, so I ordered some more and put tape on the screws that were missing washers.
Front right baffleFront left baffleBaffling Baffling
Tonight I test fit the front baffles. The front right baffle was the easiest to install, and looks to be a good fit. The front left was more challenging, but after disconnecting the oil return line, I was able to get it into position. This one will need a little adjustment to properly conform to the engine casing, and a couple of corners that need some easing.
In the process of test fitting the front baffles I noticed that I had made an error with the front center bracket. Just like the aft bracket, I had misread the drawing and had it on the left side instead of the right side of the centerline. Then I noticed I had the bolt installed from left to right, instead of right to left, on both brackets. It’s probably not a big deal, but it always makes me nervous when I miss something or find an error. What else did I miss?
I fixed the errors with the bracket, installed the hardware and torqued the nuts.
Front left baffleFront left baffleThe incorrect bracket mountingFront right bafflingFront right baffling
Over the last few evenings I’ve made a little progress on the front baffling.
I riveted together the parts, and applied RTV where instructed. The RTV strips are to reduce chaffing on the engine cylinder cooling fins. RTV is also used to help glue the mesh in place covering the cabin hot air intake.
These are ready to be test-fit onto the engine and trimmed (if necessary).
Front right baffle coming togetherFront right baffleFront left baffle with RTV strips appliedFront right baffling with RTV applied
Tonight I worked on the front baffles, including the air ramp. Dad had already made progress drilling and deburring parts, and installing nut plates. I picked up where he left off and completed a page of steps.
Today I installed the aft baffles on the engine. I started by picking up some high temp RTV from AutoZone. The RTV is used to provided a cushion for the baffling where it will vibrate against the engine. I masked up the aft baffling, roughed it up with sandpaper, cleaned it, and then smeared RTV in the specified locations. This was then left to dry for a few hours.
Later in the day I installed the aft baffles, and looked to areas where it was rubbing against the case. I found a few locations, and marked them with a sharpie. Then I uninstalled it all, filed down the offending areas, and then reinstalled for (hopefully) the final time.
Red high-temp RTV Red high-temp RTVOne area where adjustment was needed. The very bottom section is contacting the valve coverAnother area where the baffling was contacting the engine caseTrimming the aluminum tube, this was just about the right lengthTubing in position and bolt installed and torquedView from the top after baffles installed
Tonight I test fit the aft baffling on the engine.
I found a couple of rivets that I had forgotten to set, so I went ahead and tried the aft baffling on the engine, and then took it off and set those rivets.
Trying the baffling on the engine was a little tricky. The instructions say to remove the oil return line from cylinder 3 to make it easier to install the right baffle. I can see why, it definitely gets in the way. But instead of undoing the fitting, just a gentle bend as it’s going on solves the problem. The much harder issue is the aft left baffle. It took me almost 30 minutes of trial and error to finally find a way to get it in. The trick is to insert it at about 45 degrees, getting the baffle under the engine mount bolt, then working it down into position. It also helps to angle it slightly forward.
I scratched a lot of engine paint off, and scratched the baffles, but was able to get them into position.
That’s when I realized another issue. I had installed the bracket on the wrong side of the case, and the holes were not even close to lining up.
I took it all off again… will fix it tomorrow.
Right baffle in position. Remaining rivets with clecosHow not to install. The baffle needs to go forward of that oil lineOops, bracket is on the wrong side of the case
Tonight I continued working on the baffling. I had to drill out a few rivets and redo them, as they had tipped over too much. I also found a mistake where I’d used the wrong nut plates, so I replaced those.
With the riveting done, I installed the fittings on the top of the engine case. These help hold the baffling in place. I had to gently bend the fuel line out of the way to ensure enough clearance from the bracket.
After (re)riveting a few partsThe aft fitting in positionNote the clearance from the fuel line
Today I made some more progress on baffling, deburring, dimpling, countersinking, step drilling and then riveting together parts. It’s been I while since I needed to use the compressor, but I needed to use the rivet gun in a few places. I almost always use the Main Squeeze hand-squeezer for rivets.
Baffling parts clecoed and waiting to be rivetedRiveted parts
I decided to take a break from wiring, and start back on the engine. Cracking open the baffling section, I made some progress on the first few steps, marking and trimming the doublers, and deburring parts.