Cowl Fitting

Last night I attempted to address an alignment issue on the right hand air intake. The outside edge was not lined up, so I added several layers of glass on the inside of the top cowl in the area near the prop. Tonight I test-fit the cowl. The good news is that I fixed the alignment issue, the bad news is that I introduced an equivalent alignment issue on the other side. I’m going to leave this for now and come back to the cowling at a later date.

The area on the right side of the pic shows where the layers of glass were added.
The outside edge now aligns well on the right side
The left hand side now has an alignment problem that is approximately the same as what was on the right

Cowl Fitting

Today I cleaned up the excess filler by using a small chisel to gently scrape it away.

With that done I was able to fit both pieces of the cowling in position and confirm everything lined up as expected. It looks good!

Right side of the cowling
Left side of cowling

Bottom Cowl Hinges

Today I riveted on the bottom cowl hinges. The boe-lube worked well as a release agent, and the clecos came out easily. With the hinges glued in place, I cleaned out the excess resin by running a drill through each hole. Before glueing I inserted the hinge pins, just to help avoid any deformation, and I left them in while riveting.

Progress was swift, and I had the hinges done within half an hour. I went to test fit the cowl, but found I couldn’t get the aft edge hinges to line up with the firewall-mounted hinges. Pushing the cowling back caused the cowling to bend outboard instead of seating into position. I took the cowling off, and realized that I had some excess glue between the hinge eyelets on the left hinge. This happened because I used filler to build up a bed of glue behind the hinge where it interferes with the foam section. I’ll try to clean it up tomorrow somehow.

Clecos with blue colored boe-lube as a release agent
Hinge riveting done
The excess filler causing a problem

Bottom Cowl Hinges

After clearing the excess resin, I started riveting the hinges on the bottom cowl. Immediately I realized I needed to first glue the hinges on, not just rivet these. On the aft edges, the interference between the hinge flange and the honeycomb meant that riveting the hinge could cause the rivets to tip, and leave a cavity between hinge flange and cowling. I mixed up some resin and glued all of the hinges into place. As a release agent, I used some Boe-lube on the ends of the clecos holding the hinges.

Left side looking aft
Right side

Riveted Top Cowl Hinges

Tonight I riveted the top cowling hinges on. I first cleared excess resin from the holes by running the drill through the holes. Then I clecoed and riveted the hinges on.

One thing I didn’t do on the top cowl was glue the hinges before riveting. The plans didn’t call for using any epoxy, and I decided it wasn’t really necessary.

It didn’t take too long to knock out the riveting. Once done, I mixed up more resin and coated the inside of the bottom cowl.

Test fitting the hinges
Left side hinge clecoed into position
Left side hinge during the riveting process

Cowling Work

Today I coated the interior of the top cowling with a layer of resin. This helps seal the cowling and makes cleaning oil and grime easier. I mixed up the resin and brushed it on.

Cowl Hinge Fitting

Today we finished the fitting of the top and bottom cowls, and located and drilled the hinges on both the top and bottom cowls.

The only real issue we ran into was on the bottom cowl. On the left side of the cowling the honeycomb material was too far aft, and caused interference with the hinge. We carefully bent the hinge to conform to the shape, and will use some epoxy filler to fill any void between the hinge and the cowling.

Final check of the cowling fit before starting to drill
Looking good with both cowling halves sitting in position
Holding the cowling in position to support drilling
Left side bottom cowl. Note the sharpie marks indicating the region where the hinge interferes with the honeycomb
Drilling the right hand side hinge of the bottom cowl
Right hand side for comparison
A closer view of the interference
After drilling the fore/aft hinges that hold the two halves together
Hinge pins bent per plans
Annoying lack of fit on the right air inlet. Will need to spend time filling/glassing/sanding this area to improve the alignment
Clearance between cowling and aft spinner plate looks good
Notching out the top cowl for the hinge pin plate
Everything drilled!
My mum made this awesome seat! This will serve as seating until I eventually order an interior.

Cowl Fitting

Yesterday, and again today we spent time adjusting the cowling. With the top cowl just about perfect, we marked out and drilled holes in the firewall-side top cowl hinges. Then we installed the bottom cowl and used a strap to hold it in place while drilling holes in the air inlets.

Too cowling fitting
Checking the clearance from the spinner plate
Cowl fitting
Drilling the hinges
Drilling hinges
Strap holding the two cowl halves together
Alignment looking good. The outboard edges of the inlets will need work, but that is expected.

Cowling Fitting

Today my Dad and I worked on fitting the cowling.

The first step was getting the top cowl firewall attach hinges to fit nicely. The instructions call for filing the corners of the eyelets on the firewall to allow the cowl-side eyelets to fit nicely in the area where the hinge curves from the top to the side. Then some fluting is needed on the cowl side to ensure a consistent curvature.

With a nice alignment of hinges, we moved onto trimming the cowling. There is a scribe line that shows where the cuts should be made, but it’s important to go through an iterative process of fitting and adjusting, since the scribe line is more of a guide, and certainly not exact. The cowling went on and off many times while dad carefully trimmed away to get a perfect fit.

The prop needs to go on before we can finalize the fitting of the cowling, but the majority of the trimming work was completed today.

Dad filing the edges of the hinge eyelets
The fluting is visible here on the cowling side of the hinge. Also visible are the rounded edges of the firewall-side hinge eyelets
The initial set of cuts being made to remove excess material. We used a diamond hacksaw blade for most of the cuts, and a hacksaw blade for the tight corners
Marking the scribe lines with a sharpie to make the trimming process easier
Cutouts for the gear legs visible
The two halves being test-fit