Brake cylinders

Tonight I spent time sorting through the various documentation that came with my Berlinger brake kit, and then installing the brake cylinders on the pedals.

Berlinger is a French company, and therefore their native measurements are all metric. That’s not a comprehension problem for me, in fact it’s my preferred method, but it does get confusing when mixing metric and imperial. The brake cylinders seem to be all metric, but the hardware supplied to install is imperial.

Berlinger supply an “installation manual” for the RV-14 kit, but it is not at the level of detail I’ve become accustomed to with Vans. Some of it was just wrong. For example, the diagram, and supplied install hardware, calls for AN3-10a bolts. At the bottom of the cylinder, those bolts are too short to provide clearance from the rudder pedal itself.

I ended up using their supplied hardware for the top of the cylinders, but used a longer AN3-12 bolt with a castle nut. The castle nut isn’t really necessary because Beringer supply a rod end bearing that does the rotating. But, in the even the bearing started binding, it is good to know the nut would not come off.

Interestingly, I discovered that the left and right rudder bars are not identical. The right cylinders needed less length that the left (or vice versa?). This must be due to the geometry once installed.

Next I’ll be working out how these lines attach via Banjo fittings. Hopefully it’s not too complicated, but it will require some more research.

Top of the cylinders. AN3-10a, thin washers
Bottom of cylinders. AN3-12, combo of washers, an a castle nut. Note the difference is threads showing on the rod end bearings. This is because the left and right rudder attach points are different lengths.
The two sets of rudder pedals laying on top of one another.

Installing pedals

I guess I didn’t really finish the rudder pedals yesterday, but tonight I did. I installed them into the rudder bars, applying some grease and torquing the castle nuts so that there’s minimal play, and also minimal friction.

Rudder pedals bolted into the rudder bars

Finished rudder pedals

Tonight I finished the rudder pedals, final-sizing the holes and riveting the parts together. I was able to squeeze all of the rivets, so assembly was easy. It’s recommended to put the shop head of a rivet on the side with the thickest material, but I didn’t like the idea of having the shop heads visible on the pedals, so I deviated from that.

Final-sizing the holes
Squeezing the rivets
Finished pedals
Back side of the pedals

Painted rudder pedals

Having separated the parts previously, tonight I etched and primed the rudder pedals. This was a good chance to experiment with some changes to my painting setup.

Previously I had no regulator on the air from the compressor to gun, and was using hi-flow couplers. With this setup, I was setting pressure on the tank at around 100 PSI. First I added a regulator to the gun, allowing me to see what actual pressure was passing through the gun with the trigger pulled. It was around 30 PSI, higher than the recommended 24. It was possibly even higher since the regulator is likely interfering with air pressure and flow even with the control backed out completely. With the regulator in line, I was able to set air pressure on the tank to 50 PSI, and adjust the regulator to allow 24 PSI with the trigger pulled.

With the changes made, I primed the rudder pedals. The result was an improvement, but there is still some orange peel effect showing up. It’s good enough for the rudder pedals, since no one will be looking that closely. I will try to tune the pressure and paint volume again to see if I can get a better result before I start painting the cockpit.

Laid out ready to start cleaning, etching and priming
After priming
One assembled rudder pedal, just for reference

Paint Prep

Tonight I cleaned the cockpit with rubbing alcohol, and rotated the fuselage upside down in preparation for paint.

I have some new paint that arrived, smoke grey color, which will be used to coat the cockpit. I want to tune up my paint system before I start on the cockpit, so I will start by painting the rudder peddles.

Paint prep

Tonight I finished masking up the cockpit in preparation for painting. I used dowels in the nutplates to hopefully prevent any paint from fouling up the threads.

The area will need a final clean up with alcohol before I can start spraying.

Cockpit masked up. A combination of cardboard, paper, and dowels were needed for prep
Close-up on the dowels in nutplates

Finished baggage area

Today at lunchtime I quickly finished setting the final rivets in the baggage area, completing the chapter. Next I will be painting the cockpit, and then installing the brakes and rudder pedals.

Baggage area finished. Floors, flap motor channel, flap motor mounts, and side walls all installed.

Baggage Compartment

Yesterday I was able to install the flap motor channel and flap motor brackets, and today I installed the baggage compartment side walls. Actually, I didn’t quite finish; there are some rivets I will need to buck tomorrow to wrap up. It is too late in the evening to start riveting.

The pop riveting is so fast, it’s really amazing how quickly and easily it all comes together. I wouldn’t attempt this without a pneumatic squeezer though, it would be painful to manually set these hundreds of rivets. I made extensive use of the “wedge tool”. I found it very useful to have a piece of tape on the little wedge so I could tape it into the correct orientation before setting the rivet.

Flap motor channel installed. 4 rivets at the bottom need to be bucked
Motor mounts riveted into position
Baggage side walls clecoed into place
Riveting the side panels into place
Where it stands at the end of the day. Clecos on the left indicate rivets that need bucking. Note the clecos on the right at the bottom of the flap motor channel, also need bucking

Baggage floor

Today I finished the baggage floor, and installed the splice. Then I installed nutplates on the flap motor bracket, which is now ready to install. Everything went well, except the final rivets between the floors and the side ribs. These holes were not well aligned, and I needed to ream them somewhat to get rivets into the holes.

Fuselage on rotisserie makes this work much easier
Floors finished, and splice installed
Nutplates installed

Baggage floor

Today I finished the pop rivets on the baggage floors. The remaining rivets, those between the floor and the rear bulkhead, need to be set with a rivet gun. It’s too late in the evening to be pounding rivets, so I moved onto the next step, and installed the seat back hinges.

Seat back hinges installed