Autopilot roll servo

Today I installed the autopilot roll servo. Having done this on the previous set of wings, this went quickly. I also installed the bell crank, the adel clamps, and torqued all the bolts.

Installed and wired up
Install finished except for wiring tidy up.

Right wing systems and spare wiring

Today I spent time running the wiring harnesses through the right wing, and installing the spare wiring molex connector bracket. This is my own (Vans approved) modification to make it easier to add more electrical devices in the future.

Riveting on the spare wiring bracket. Look at that grey hair
Bracket installed
Autopilot roll servo wiring

Right wing fuel tank test

I pulled off the right wing fuel tank, installed the fuel sender and other fittings, and then leak tested the tank. I wasn’t able to find any leaks using the soap and water technique, so I reinstalled the tank back on the wing.

Ready to start the leak test

Pitot tubing

Today I match drilled the pitot tube brace to the rib, and then riveted it in place on the rib. Now it’s ready for the bottom skin install. Then I installed an adel clamp to hold the pitot lines near where they will connect to the pitot tube, and torqued the bolt.

Match drilling and riveting the pitot tube support angle. It’s behind behind the plate, where the left 3 clecos are placed. 4 rivets join the angle to the rib
Adel clamp holding AOA and Pitot lines where they will attach to the pitot tube. Here you can see the pitot support angle riveted to the rib
Another view of the pitot and AOA lines

Wing systems

Tonight I enlarged one of the wing systems holes to 5/8ths to allow two pneumatic tubes to fit through the first 4 ribs. Then I installed my additional spar wiring molex bracket, ran all of the wiring in the left wing, and installed adel clamps in the area where the wiring runs along the spar.

The additional molex connector bracket is supporting the two additional molex connectors, one for the pitot heater, and one for spare wiring. The red and clear tubes are protruding from the enlarged 5/8th holes
At all stations on the main spar, I have an adel clamp like this one installed. These have slightly longer AN bolts, and right now they are not torqued. The clamp keeps the wires from moving, and protects them from chafing on the spar waffle plate edge

Wing systems

Today I started installing the wing systems. I ran some of the cables out to the wing stops, but then discovered I made one error on the routing and had to undo some work. Unfortunately I ended up snapping some molex crips, so I need to order some replacements from Vans to finish the wing tip lighting runs.

Fuel sender wired. I tested the connection, seems ok
One of the left wing wiring harnesses installed
The first, and incorrect, routing of these wires. These need to run along the spar one more bay before stepping aft (up). I fixed the issue

Left fuel tank leak test

Today I leak-tested the left wing fuel tank, and with a passing result, I then reinstalled the tank onto the wing.

I seem to have misplaced my two fuel strainer fittings, so I have ordered two new from Vans. Unfortunately they are on back-order, so I have no idea when they will arrive. Without those fittings I had to resort to filling those holes with something with something else. At first I tried duct tape, but then switched to a latex plug that I have from my powder-coating equipment. It slowly leaked, but that was ok since I was using soap and water to test for leaks, and maintaining pressure wasn’t needed. I just gauged the air pressure by watching the bubbles form around the latex plug. It worked out well, and I didn’t find any leaks anywhere on the tank.

Initial setup. The duct tape was ok, but I preferred the latex plug
Spraying down the tank with soap and water
What a leak looks like
Test complete, no leaks found

With that done, I wasn’t sure how hard it would be to reinstall the tank onto the wing. I rigged up a strap to help give some support, and I was surprised at how easily it went back into position. I was able to get bolts through the spar and into the outermost and innermost z-brackets with relative ease, then I torqued them up and the tank was in position. From there I located and installed the remaining bolts, final torqued them all to 25 inch pounds (plus 10 for thread friction), and applied thread seal. I left off the lower bolts from each position to allow me to install adel clamps once the wiring runs are complete.

Tank reinstalled on the wing
Bolts installed, torqued and sealed

Installed left wing fuel sender

Today I installed the fuel sender in the left wing.

The install was fine, definitely easier with the tank removed, and easier the second time around. I sanded away the primer from the rib, around the area where the sealant would go. Then I test fit the sender and made some minor tweaks to the arm position to stop it from hitting the bottom of the tank, and the top skin too. Then I mixed up the sealant and got it done. I should have added some hole location info before I covered the holes with sealant. I had to fiddle around to locate the screws into their holes, and in the process I messed up what should have been the perfect install. Anyway, it looks ok and I think it’s a good tight seal.

Scuffing the surface with scotchbrite
The finished install

Left fuel tank

Tonight I dropped the left fuel tank, and then found all the parts I needed to install the fuel senders and run the tank test. It took a while to find everything, despite my fairly organized boxes of parts.

I actually started during the day, Jen gave me a hand to lift the right wing out of the way so I could unscrew all the screws on the top of the left wing. Then later in the evening I was able to remove the bolts holding the baffles to the spar and carefully remove the tank.

Moving the right wing out of the way so I can work on the top side of the left wing
Unscrewing fuel tank screws from the left wing
Tank removed and on the work benches, now back inside the garage

With the tank out of way, I was able to get a look at some of the countersinking on the spar. Not that great to be honest. Most of the holes have countersinks down to a knife edge, and the edges are not symmetrical. There are signs of chatter during the countersinking process on some of the smaller holes for the access plates, and some of the holes are misshapen.

Signs of poor quality countersinking on the QB spar

Next up I located the fuel senders, the floats, the tank drain plugs, the fuel return plug, and screws for the sender.

Then I took a few minutes to test the fuel senders. These should have a range of 30 to 250 ohms when the arm is moved. Both the left and right senders measured correctly, the right was exactly 30 to 250, and the left was 27 to 275, which is close enough.

Testing the fuel senders. This is the left wing sender with an almost full deflection

Now I need to find some product to remove the thin layer of old proseal on the senders, from when I installed them on the last wing. Once they are cleaned up I’ll install them and can start the tank test. I’m planning to do one tank at a time, just to save working space.

Landing lights and fuel tanks

Tonight I installed the landing lights into the wings, and then started the process of dropping the tanks to seal and test them.

The landing lights were already built from the last set of wings. Before I installed them I spend some time rerouting some wires to avoid any possible chaffing. Once I run the wires through the wings I’ll install a clamp to hold the wiring. I need to check that these lights are still working, but skipped that step in my hurry to get the job done. I should be able to plug in my power supply and get it working.

Left wing landing lights installed in their cove
View from inside the wing showing the landing light installed in the left wing

Next, I started the process of dropping the tank on the left wing. There are around 80 screws, and 18 bolts, per tank to remove to get the tank off the wing. Access is a problem with the wing in the stand, so I will need to move the right wing somewhere to finish removing all the screws from the left wing.

My plan is to drop the left wing tank, install the fuel sender, then use soap and water to inspect for leaks. If it all looks ok, I’ll then reinstall onto the wing, and then do the right wing.

Unscrewing tank screws