Panel Wiring

The last couple of evening I’ve been using trial and error to work out the right structure to support the wiring behind the sub panel.

One of the changes I’ve made is to rivet together two pieces of channel to reduce the sharp edges.

I also installed an adel clamp bracket on the right side of the subpanel to hold several wiring bundles.

Getting ready to rivet the two halves of the cross beam

Panel Wiring

Tonight I started on the daunting task of trying to tidy up the wiring under and behind the panel. It’s a giant, heavy, ball of spaghetti right now, and I’m not sure if I have enough length to position things where I need them.

I decided I needed some kind of frame behind the subpanel to support the main wiring harness. Using some spare channel, I mocked up a frame and started trying to figure out a solution. I eventually settled on two channels running from the sub panel to the firewall, and a cross beam made from another length of channel. I should be able to rivet the fore/aft channels on the sub-panel end, but not sure I’ll be able to get rivets in on the firewall end.

The scary mess
The basic structure I intend to install

FlyLED controller and Light dimmer

Today I installed the FlyLED controller board and the light dimmer circuit board. These both went of the forward side of the sub panel. The mounting hardware protrudes through the sub panel, behind the vpower unit.

I uninstalled the shelf that holds the vpower box and transponder, to allow access to drill the mounting holes for both boards.

Dad made a template to mark the holes, and then we drilled them to the correct size. The plastic standoff pins for the FlyLED board worked nicely, the only tricky part was mounting the board, which I did by feel, since there’s no easy access.

After installing the boards, the 4 standoff pins are visible between the piano hinges, while in the background the two #8 screws holding the dimmer board are visible.
FlyLED board installed on the plastic standoff pins
#8 screws hold the dimmer board onto the sub panel

Shelves etc

After some time off building for work and other events, I was able to get some time in the garage today. I made a cover for the fuse box, as I won’t be using it. It’s also a (hopefully) convenient location to mount the CO detector. I found a template on Vans Air Force, cut it out, drill holes, and countersunk for flush screws. I match drilled holes for the CO detector mount, then primed the cover.

I also rebuilt the bottom shelf on the pilot side, making a much stronger version. I have been iterating on the design several times, but think I have it right this time. I did a test fit with the vertical power unit and the transponder, and it looks good to me.

Passenger side mounts

The last two days I’ve been working on the passenger side shelves for the engine monitor, air data computer, and the satellite receiver.

The box that will hold the engine data and air data computers. They don’t require cooling, so no issues with encasing them in this way
The plate I’m using to stiffen the sub panel and allow the shelf to be positioned exactly where I want it, without worrying about the panel sub-structure (ribs etc).
The units installed in the box. AN-3 bolts will hold these in position. Tape stops drill shavings from getting into the d-sub connectors. I ended up re-orienting the bolts on the bottom so the heads are on top and nuts underneath
Drilling holes in the sub panel
The satellite data receiver, which requires a certain orientation relative to the aircraft direction of travel. This shelf will install behind the sub-panel.
The shelves installed
Another angle of the sub panel
Passenger side with all the components in their final position. Tape is where I need to safety-wire the piano hinge pins
A look at passenger and pilot side shelving

Standby battery

Tonight I decided where to install the standby battery and made the parts to mount it above the center channel about 3 inches aft of the firewall on the cover panel between the sets of rudder pedals. I made backing plates to reinforce the panel and to hold the nut plates.

It was a pain to work on this panel because the canopy release cable passes through behind the battery, and I can’t remove the panel without undoing work on the canopy release mechanism. So I drilled, deburred and riveted everything with the panel nearly in place, which was awkward.

Location of standby battery. The screws are temporarily holding this in place.

Sub Panel Mounts

Over the last couple of days I’ve been slowly refining the design and construction for the sub panel mounts on the pilot side. The two biggest boxes going in this area are the Vertical Power and Transponder unit. Originally I was planning to orient these horizontally, but when I installed the bank of switches, there isn’t enough room. So I switched the orientation to vertical. This also meant the standby battery wouldn’t fit, so that is going to move somewhere else. Tonight I finished the construction and test fit everything.

Nut plates and piano hinges have been used extensively
The vertical power unit.
Drilling holes in the various panels and hinges
The location of the two piano hinges that hold the boxes in place on the subpanel. The upper hinge has a backing plate on the forward side of the subpanel
Test fitting the frame. While not shown, I made sure the transponder unit fits inside the cage

Sub Panel Mounts

Tonight I worked on making the first mount for the sub-panel. This will house the GTR-20 remote com radio, and the GMA-245R remote audio panel.

Since my last blog post I’ve made multiple revisions to my plans for mounting the hardware. I’m reasonably happy with the final arrangement, and it’s good enough to get started building. I’m sure I’ll decide to change something else, but it’s time to get started making stuff.

Everything went according to plan, and it turned out alright. With no pre-punched or pre-formed parts the whole construction process took a lot longer.

GMA-20 will sit inside this shelf
Nutplates installed, drilling holes
Working on the shelf
The shelf will be connected to the panel and sub-panel via piano hinges. This allows for easy removal if needed for maintenance
Mostly complete shelf. Com radio on the bottom, and remote audio panel on the top

GEA24 mount

Tonight I worked out how I plan to mount the GEA24 box. This will mount directly onto the sub panel, with a doubler on each side to support the nut plates and provide some additional strength. The box itself is not heavy, but with the cables attached it will be heavier. It also needs to be able to withstand repeated +6/-3 G loads without cracking, so I want the mount to be strong.

Space on the forward side of the sub-panel is tight on one side, and open on the other. I made up to backing plates, the drilled, countersunk, and primed them.

Location of the box on the sub-panel. The doubler on the near side will fit between the map-box doubler (the opening on the right), and the rib flange about 25mm to the left
The GEA24 showing the wiring harness attach points, and the doublers
The doublers. These will have nut plates attached and will be pop riveted into position behind the sub-panel

Remote boxes

Tonight I came up with what I believe will be the right placement for the remote components behind the panel. Initially, it looks like everything will fit in with room to install all the necessary wiring harnesses and d-sub connectors. On the left side, I need to determine the orientation of the boxes. I think setting the vertical power and transponder vertically against the sub-panel, with the standby battery sitting on a tray at the bottom of the space will result in the best clearance. However I’ll keep options open and try both.

Now I need to work out the tray structure I need to build to hold these components. I’ve seen a few ideas, but need to settle on a plan.

Right side mock-up. Com radio, remote audio panel, engine monitor, air data receiver, and satellite data receiver. the white tape indicates the approximate location of the canopy frame when closed.
The actual boxes oriented as they will fit in the space. Black box is the satellite receiver, and it has a specific required orientation. It’ll be raised to allow connectors to pass underneath.
Option 1 for left side orientation. This gives the most clearance from the bottom edge of the screen recess. another unknown is how much space I need behind the switches which sit below the screen on this side. I may need to install the switches temporarily to check this out.
Option 2 for the left side. This would be my preferred orientation, but there might be a clearance issue.