Dimpled skins

With my benches on wheels, I was able to move them apart and install some lengths of 2×4. These can support the DRDT-2 between the two benches, creating a more convenient area to dimple larger skins. My Dad first suggested this earlier in the year, and I’ve since seen several build logs where this has been done.

DRDT-2 supported by 2×4 between two benches. Note the wheels installed yesterday
Close up of DRDT-2 on 2×4
Dimpling the top skin

With the dimpled in place between the benches, I went to work dimpling parts. Starting with the top skin and components that mount to if (j-channel, doubler and a rivet), then moving onto the top side skins. It took some moving of benches to get at all the holes, but the second one went faster than the first.

Dimpling the right top side skin
Dimpling the top side skins required a decent amount of shifting benches around and changing dimple dies. The curvature of the skin, coupled with it’s length made it challenging at times.

My helper! She loves to come and see what I’m doing and help any way she can.

With the skins all dimpled, I clecoed the left top side skin into position for riveting. I plan to back-rivet as much as I can, and will do some research first to see what others have done before I begin.

Left top side skin dimpled and clecoed in position.
Left top side skin clecoed in position

Riveted Aft Deck

With the wiring secured, I started riveted the aft deck. I worked on this over several evenings (6/28 -7/1), doing a few rivets at a time. Mostly this was straight forward, but I did have a couple of frustrations with rivets in tight corners near the aft end, and tucked in close to the protruding bulkhead attach points. I was able to squeeze most of the rivets, but had to use my double-offset rivet set on several. It’s really easy for the double-offset rivet set to jump, and it only takes a tiny skip to cause a smiley face rivet.

I emailed Vans about the rivet length callouts where several different lengths are specified in areas where the same material is being riveted together. The response was to go with the rule of thumb for determining length, plans are guidelines. So I measured the thickness of the material and added 1.5 times the rivet diameter to get the rivet length, then rounded up. A little long is better than a little short, provided the rivet doesn’t cleve over.

I haven’t actually finished this step yet, as I don’t have a long enough flush rivet set to clear the forward bulkhead. I’ve ordered one from Aircraft Spruce and it should hopefully be here by the weekend.

The aft deck components clecoed together. I started by riveting the bulkhead to the deck, where the clecos are in the foreground
Aft deck clecoed into position. Lots of clecos to ensure this is all alighted as close to perfect as possible
Most of the rivets done at this point. The last few in the aft section with clecos turned out to be the most time consuming
Annoying to not be able to finish the last 6 rivets. Hopefully my longer set will be here by the weekend. Note the rags stuffed inside the fuselage. This is to prevent damage if I accidentally dropped a bucking bar. Thankfully haven’t had the problem yet
Connecting the elevator trim tab wires to the aft deck. The molex connector snaps into a perfectly shaped pre-cut hole. Too easy.
Elevator trim molex connector with the wiring run and service loop in the background

Additional wiring for antennae pass through a snap-bushing on the aft deck.

Wiring tidy-up

I picked up some spiral wrap from Aircraft Spruce and put it to use today. It’s good for protecting wiring runs from chafing, and for stiffening and organizing wires. I used some at the point where the elevator and tail light wiring transitions from the forward bulkhead to the j-channel. I also added a small length at the point where the wires pass through the bulkhead, and secured it all with zip ties.

Spiral wrap in 3 different diameters
Forward bulkhead with wiring run secured, and spiral wrap attached. This gives some stiffness to the bundle, and provides some protection from chafing on the edges of the j-channel and bulkhead
This extra length of spiral wrap is giving some protection from the bulkhead edge. It’s secured on the other side with a zip tie

Aft of the bulkhead, zip ties are keeping plenty of clearance between wires and sharp edges. At the aft end of the j-channel where the wiring run transitions through a bushing in one of the aft bulkheads, I added some more spiral wrap to the elevator trim wires. The elevator trim wires pass through this bulkhead then route up and through the the aft deck via a molex connector. There is a lot of slack, so I created a service loop and secured it with zip ties on the bulkhead. The concern here is to make sure these wires could never interfere with the elevator pushrod that passes through this area.

Looking aft, spiral wrap on the elevator trim cables protect against chafing and keep the wires together. The elevator pushrod will pass through the hole in the bulkhead in the top left of the picture
Looking forward, service loop is secure below the opening for the elevator pushrod. The molex connector will plug into a port on the aft deck.
Close up of the service loop. This is secured against the bulkhead with a zip tie. If that were to break, this loop is stuff enough to remain in position.

Primed top side skins

Tonight I primed the top and top side skins. I started in the afternoon cleaning and etching, then came back into the garage in the evening to paint. I used a new paint nozzle on my gun, and it made a big difference in quality. I’ve been using the original nozzle since I started about a year ago, and it was past due for a replacement. The combination of high air flow and new nozzle made a huge improvement over my initial attempts at priming. I finally feel like I am getting the hang of painting with the spray gun.

About to start painting
Top right side skin primed. Aft deck in the foreground

Fixed cracks

I heard back from Vans this week about the cracked dimples. I was anticipating installing a doubler plate, but their advice was to upsize the holes and install oops-rivets (rivets with a -4 shank and a -3 machine head). I didn’t think upsizing the hole would remove the cracks, but I did it anyway. On one hole the crack was removed, and on the other it was better but still not completely eliminated. I carefully inspected and filed down the dimple slightly to remove the remains of the crack, and plan to install oops rivets tomorrow. I took pictures and emailed to Vans and Jason for a second and third opinion.

One of the cracked dimples.

I also heard back from Vans on the spar deburring question. Here is their response

Just a quick follow up, Engineering has just given me a written response to your initial question about deburring (or lack thereof) on your wing spar.

Van’s Engineering Response;regarding an RV-14 W-00006C Spar doubler (waffle) plate’s un-deburred edges.

There are considerably higher stress concentrations elsewhere in the spar than along the edges of the spar doubler (waffle plate), e.g. the spar to center section attach holes and the notch in the spar web where the flange terminates. Early version waffle plates were not deburred and were deemed acceptable. Spars were static-tested to 150% of Limit Load (aka Ultimate). Experience has shown that static tests exceeding ultimate loads tend to produce shape failures at locations removed from the main spar. As part of the annual condition inspection, it is required to examine the connection between the wing spar and center section. This would reveal any evidence of fatigue cracking at these higher stress concentrations. Therefore, the un-deburred waffle plate edges are not critical.

Deburred skins

Last night, and again tonight I spent time deburring the top side skins. I finished deburring these skins, and these are now ready to be primed. My goal is to prime them this weekend, so they are ready to go when I need them in the near future.

At this point I have a number of tasks to complete. I need to fix my cracked dimples, finish up my wiring runs (install a couple of zip ties), install the aft deck, then install the top skins, finishing the aft fuse. Then I need to start working through the QB sections, checking that all steps were completed.

Top skins deburred and ready to be primed

2nd tech counselor visit

Jason came over for a visit today and reviewed my work on the aft fuse. We talked about some of the wiring runs and some of the more challenging rivets. His comment in the write up of “very high quality” was really encouraging. We also looked over the QB wings and fuse and he gave me some great advice while also pointing out some issues. There is a lack of deburring on the wing spar “waffles”, which I emailed Vans about. Also a couple of scratches and notches that I’ll need to debur.

Later in the day, I went to work riveting a few rivets that I had found to be difficult on the aft fuse, and had left until after I had talked to Jason. These rivets were instructed by the j-channel, and when I set them using the foot of my I long bar, the rivets had a tendency to cleave over. Jason offered a couple of simple suggestions, including taping my other bucking bar to increase mass and center the rivet along the center of mass. This worked great!

Taping two bars together helped put more mass inline with the rivet being bucked

Unfortunately I ended up cracking dimples on two rivets, when I stupidly set the rivet while it was not completely square with the holes. For some reason, a alignment issue caused the rivets to not sit squarely in the hole, and instead of investigating and perhaps reeming the hole, I set the rivet. This caused the rivet to transfer stress to the bulkhead flange and crack the edge of the dimple. Really stupidly, I did it twice, on different bulkheads. I didn’t detect the first one until after setting the second rivet. I emailed Vans asking for advice, and went to bed feeling frustrated.

One of the two cracked dimples. The other one is on the other side on a different bulkhead. I had left these rivets to the end because they are behind the j-channel, and setting them had Ben difficult

Drilled aft deck

There are a few holes on the aft deck components that need to be match drilled, as they are fabricated by the builder. Today I clecoed and clamped together these parts and drilled the 5 holes.

Aft deck parts clecoed in position. I used clamps to support these parts while drill the holes. Here you can see the cleco clamps on the aft brace where three holes are match drilled.

Primed aft deck parts

Aft deck and some top skin components cleaned, etched and ready to be primed

Today I primed the aft deck components and some of the top skin reinforcing parts. I used 50 grams of part A, and it was just enough to get a coating I was happy with.

Deburring aft deck parts

Tonight I spent an hour deburring some of the remaining parts for the aft fuselage. Not much to go now, just some aft deck components, and top skin parts with associated stiffeners.

Some of the remaining components for the aft fuselage after deburring