Countersinking wing root fairing attach points

I found some posts regarding countersinking several holes where the wing root fairing attaches to the wing. The plans are a little vague, but the consensus online (and endorsed by Vans) is to countersink several holes in the top skin and the fuel tank attach point. The tricky part is that the quick builders have already put the nutplates on, so the countersink pilot is too wide to fit into the threaded nutplates. The trick is to use a different size (#30) which fits inside the threaded nutplate and cuts just the same.

I tried this on a couple of holes. The single-fluted cutter does a nice job.

It seems like dimpling all of these holes would have been better, but that’s not an option with the Quickbuild. I’m hoping all these knife-edges won’t crack over time.

This hole looks wallowed, but the camera wasn’t square with the hole.
Single-fluted #30 cutter

Pushrod round 2

Tonight I cut my next pushrod to the correct length, and then spent time modifying my tools to build a better clamp for the drill press.

I trimmed some material off my pipe clamp, and then mounted it on a block of wood. I found a bushing that I can use to keep the drill bit centered, and then clamped everything down firmly onto the drill press tray. I tested with some scrap, and the hole was straight and true. I always end up coming back to the same rule; clamp your work.

Much more secure setup for drilling holes in the small diameter tubing of the pushrods

Pushrod fail

Well, my pushrod didn’t work out. Tonight I spent time locating and riveting the threaded ends onto the pushrod I made lay night. The rivets are tricky to set because they are so long, and not fully supported inside the tube. They have a tendency to tip over, and the advice Vans gives it to use a hand squeezer and go slow. My first rivet didn’t work, so I drilled it out and tried again. The second attempt was better, but I realized that the holes I had drilled were not precise enough, and not exactly through the center of the tube. The result was a rivet shop head that wasn’t uniform in it’s distance from the tubing. It was essentially set on an angle. I pressed on, and set the next rivet, and noticed my imprecise hole alignment again. But the real show-stopper came at the other end where for some reason, the fitting had rotated slightly between drill holes, and the holes just didn’t line up well enough. So, now it’s time to make another one and put this one on the “experience” pile.

Not-so-great rivets. This one goes on the scrap pile
Squeezing the first rivet

Wing Wiring and Aileron pushrods

Today I visited my friend Mike who is also building an RV-14. Mike is about a year ahead of me, and is about to mount his engine. It was great to see his plane on it’s gear, and to look at how Mike did things.

I borrowed a rotisserie that Mike had finished using, which will be helpful in the near future.

Tonight I worked on cleaning up the wiring around the autopilot servo. Following Mike’s example, I drilled and stepped up a new systems hole that allows me to route the wiring in a more direct path.

I couldn’t finish that job as I’m waiting on some longer AN3 bolts, and some Adel clamps.

Next I worked on the aileron pushrods. Using some spare nuts, I installed the rod end fittings in the drill press and sanding them down slightly until they fit snugly in the steel tubing. Then I drilled and primed the tubes. I only did this one one, as I’m waiting on replacement parts for the other one.

Wiring in it’s original location. I am moving the servo wiring down close to the spar. Will do an “after” photo later

Pushrod with end fittings temporarily attached.

Post-script… I did receive the bolts and re-routed the wiring, the result was a much cleaner install and wiring routing.

Servo wires are now routed along the spar, and secured with an adel clamp. There is a service loop to the left, just out of the picture. This is a much better setup.

Primed pushrods and bulkhead

I’ve been busy with work and family stuff, and have had several weeks without any airplane time. Today was warm and dry, so I took the chance to prime a few parts. I made a custom stand for the pushrods since they are cylindrical and had openings at each end that I didn’t want to prime (they are already primed). Everything came out looking ok.

Bulkhead and pushrods cleaned and etched
The threads are plugged with silicone plugs I bought when powder coating the pitot mast. Nails through a block of 2×4 at each end allow the rods to stay up off the bench, and they can rotate freely.
Painted parts

Aileron push-rods

Tonight I pop riveted on the rod ends for the longer two aileron pushrods, and cut and drilled pilot holes for the shorter two. I also primed the threads of the rod ends for the longer pushrods. I didn’t get started until 10:30pm, as I’m quite busy at work this week.

Pop riveting the ends was straightforward. I needed to sand down the primer inside the tubes for two of the 4 ends, but they eventually all fit nicely.

With that done, I cut the two shorter pushrods from the supplied powder-coated steel rods. Then I marked and drilled the holes for the rod ends on these shorter two rods. I was getting quite tired, so I decided to finish by priming the threads on the rod ends.

Pop riveted rod ends
Marking and then cutting the shorter two pushrods

Torque Tube-to-bellcrank pushrods

After a week away, I came back to the garage tonight. I drilled the first set of aileron pushrods, and deburred the ends. None of the rod ends needed sanding, they all fit easily into the ends of the tubes.

To my surprise, I found that the template Vans supplied for drilling the holes was not to scale. I made my own out of some graph paper. I also used an off it to practice drilling using my pipe clamp on the drill press. It all worked ok, so I moved onto the real parts.

My own template
Practicing with the clamp and drill press
Finished drilling and deburring the tubes. Next step will be match drilling into the threaded rod ends, then priming inside and outside of the whole assembly

Aileron fitting and actuation

Tonight I added the flap hinge bearings, hung the right wing aileron, and marked the long aileron torque tubes for cutting. It was getting to late to attempt a cut tonight. I’m tired, and it will be quite noisy.

The plans have you squeeze the flap bearings in using a c-clamp, with a small socket set. The socket set allows you to squeeze the bearing through and have it protrude evenly on either side of the mount.

Squeezing the flap bearings

Hanging the aileron was not too difficult, just annoying trying to get all the washers and bearings on at the right place and time. A little patience and it was done. The aileron has a counterweight in the leading edge, so it rests against the stop in a full upwards deflection.

Quick-built aileron
Right wing aileron installed

The torque tubes that run through from the wing root to the aileron bell-crank are 64.25 inches long. I marked the cuts I need on the two 6 foot lengths of tube.

Left aileron with the two tubes ready to be cut to length

Riveting bottom left outboard skin

Another riveting session tonight. I am almost done with this step, which is the top half of the skin. I decided to stop where I am, so I can have my tech councilor come over and review my wiring runs and everything else on the wing before I close it up completely. It was easier than I expected to get these rivets in, and they all set well with no need to replace any of them.

Red highlights indicate the rivets I have set so far

I think the bottom half of the skin may prove tougher to rivet, as I’ll have less ability to flex the skin as I get further towards the bottom.

Given I’m going to wait for my tech visit, I’m going to move on to the next section which is flap installation, then aileron install and actuation.

Riveting left bottom skin

Tonight I spent time riveting the left bottom skin. I spent 2 hours on it, and set about 50 rivets. I was worried that I’d struggle to get this done working by myself, but so far it hasn’t been too bad. Riveting across the rear spar flange, and down the ribs, I have something to brace the bucking bar against. This makes a big difference because it keeps the bar square in one dimension, and helps to steady the bar. I can’t actually see the bar, and am doing it by feel, but all of my rivets came out nice. It was actually enjoyable just listening to music and banging away. It’s slow going because I have to feel my way on the inside of the skin.

It feels really good to be finally riveting these skins on! I’ve been making slow progress for months, and this feels like the home stretch.

The red highlights indicate the rivets I was able to set tonight

Riveting the bottom outboard skin