Tonight we installed the main gear legs, and used tank sealant to install the firewall fitting for the cowl flap control.
The gear legs went were relatively easy to install compared with the tail wheel difficulties. Some grease and some gentle force were enough to insert both gear legs. Using drift pins we located the holes, then reamed the single bolt holes in both legs. With that done, caps were installed with silicon, and then the firewall fitting was installed.
I don’t have the right length bolts to install the Beringer wheels at the moment, so we are stalled on next steps.
Using drift pins to locate the right gear leg, before clamping and reaming the holeEnd caps that are glued to the engine mount with silicone. A small gap in the silicone bead is left to allow airflowBoth gear legs installed Firewall fitting that will support the cowl flap control and throttle cable
Today was a big day, we were able to get the tailwheel installed and the engine mount installed.
The tailwheel took some work. Before I had installed the tail wheel tube into the aft fuselage, I had primed the inside of the tube. This was a problem, and the finely machined flanges inside the tube were coated in paint and the tail wheel spring would not go in. We had to carefully sand the paint out of the tube before the spring could be installed and correctly positioned. Once that was done, we used a drift pin to locate the bolt hole, then carefully reamed the hole. With the bolt in place, we were able to finish installing the tail wheel components and torqued everything up.
The next task was drilling a hole through the firewall to accommodate the control cable for the EXP119 cowl flap modification. Using a step drill, I stepped up the hole, then carefully located and drilled the two smaller bolt holes used to clamp the fitting onto the firewall. Everything came out looking good, so we mixed up some tank sealant and installed the fitting onto the firewall.
With that job complete, we moved onto the engine mount. We installed 4 nut plates, found the right hardware, carefully framed the holes, and then installed the engine mount. Would have been impossible without a helper, so I was glad to have my dad assisting. We torqued up the 6 bolts, then called it a day/night.
Struggling to install the spring, prior to sanding out the primer from inside the tubeUsing a drift pin to locate the bolt holeTail wheel installedFirewall holes. The two smaller holes still need to be enlarged hereFirewall before the engine mount is installedWith engine mount installed
Today we were able to fit and ream the U-01421 and U-01431 parts, countersunk, prime, and install nut plates on the U-01418 attach brackets.
Clamping the parts to prevent any movement while reaming the single bolt holeDrift pins being used to locate the holes, prior to clamping and reamingDad and I working in the garageWheel pant attach brackets after countersinking, priming and installing nut plates
With the sticks finished, the project is to install the wheels. With my dad visiting for a week, it was a great project for us to work on together. First I located all of the components we needed. Since I’m installing Beringer wheels, and using Aircraft Specialty brake lines, we had a few different sets of hardware. No progress today, just locating components.
Tonight I wired up the d-sub pins on both sticks, using a d-sub connector on the right stick, and heat-shrink insulation instead of a connector on the left.
I’m not sure how much of a service loop is going to be appropriate here, so I may need to make some adjustments in the future to sort out the wiring runs.
Right hand stick installedLeft hand stick installed
Tonight I finished making a fitting to hold a d-sub connector, which will allow the right hand control stick to be easily removed. The fitting is made of three sheets of aluminum, and slips over the existing steel fitting for the molex connector. It’s held in place with rivets and is very solid.
On the left stick, since I don’t plan to remove it, I’m going to skip the d-sun connector and just use insulated d-sun pins held together with heat-shrink.
Tonight I finished the left hand control stick. I still need to install connectors on both wiring harnesses, and plan to use d-sub connectors, vs the standard molex from Vans.
Having already done the right stick, the left stick was faster. I cut and fit the sleeve, installed the grip, routed the wires and checked the buttons to ensure they were working as specified.
My concern with both sticks is the possibility of chaffing on the wiring where it exits the tube. To counter the possibility, I covered the wire bundle with mesh, used (electrical grade) silicone around the hole, and will zip-tie the wire bundle to minimize movement. I wish there was more I could do, but I’m out of ideas. I may need to research this more…
This is where the wiring exits the stick tube, while I was routing the wires, and before using silicone and mesh. I have deburred and smoothed out the hole, but still feel that there’s a probability of this cutting into the wiring.The inside of the stick grip before attaching to the stick tube
Tonight I finished setting up the right hand control stick, by installing the stick grip. I still need to wire up the molex connector, but it’s great to see how it looks installed in the plane. The stick grip feels very comfortable, solid, and easy to manipulate.
The most time consuming part was cutting a slot in the control stick tube, and then drilling holes through the stick. However, the sleeve made for an easy guide and I was able to get it nicely finished. I primed the sleeve and then carefully routed the wiring down the tube and out the hole at the base of the stick tube. I had to enlarge the wiring hole with the step drill, then give it a slightly oblong shape to allow the wiring to pass through without difficulty. I used some mesh to serve as an anti-chaffing layer, and secured it with some shrink seal.
Front view of the right side stick. Note the wiring exiting the tube at the bottom.Installed in the plane
I had been trying to decide what to do in terms of control sticks for the airplane, and finally decided to go with infinity stick grips. They offer a huge array of button options, but I decided to just get the standard configuration, without flaps.
The other option I was considering was Tosten sticks from Vans, which are ready-made and wired. I think the Infinity sticks look a bit better, and that was the deciding factor for me.
I might regret not getting flaps on the stick, but I feel more comfortable with the flap switch on the panel. The situation I was thinking about was a go-around. A last-minute go around involves applying a lot of nose-down trim, while also raising the flaps, and applying full power. I couldn’t imagine how my left thumb would be able to manage flaps and trim, simultaneously. Made more sense to me to have left hand doing pitch, and right hand doing power and flaps. Anyway, I can always make a change if I learn something that changes my mind.
So I started the work by stripping off powder coat on the top 2 inches of the stick, so the sleeve can fit over the stick tube. Then I drilled holes and cut a slot in the back of the stick tube. It is kinda tricky centering the holes, and I’m still working on final sizing the holes.
Left hand stick gripLeft-hand stick grip.Right hand control stick with slot cut. This is where wires will be channeled from the grip buttons into the tube and down to the connector at the base.
Today I installed the flap position sensor. I tried a right angle drill bit to see if I could drill the torque tube without removing it. There’s just not enough room, so I reverted to unbolting it and moving it. I found by sliding it up in was able to get a clear enough line to drill the hole. I used a 12 inch drill bit and flexed it slightly to get square onto the torque tube.
After unbolting the flap torque tube, I was able to slide it up enough to drill the required #30 hole
With the hole drilled, I moved on to fabricating the connecting rod. This was easy enough.
Bending the sensor rodThe rod in it’s final shape, just needs to be trimmed
Instead of using a molex connector, I followed the SteinAir how-to video and used d-sub pins and sockets to form the connections. Each wire’s connector is then covered with heat-shrink to insulate it.
Sensor installed, and flap torque tube reinstalled and bolts torqued
With all that done, I installed the rod and then reinstalled the flap torque tube, which was the hardest part of the whole process. Then I mounted the sensor, and stopped for the day. I still need to tidy up the wiring, but will do that later this week.
