Tonight I installed the panel inserts and mounted the G3X screens. This is a temporary install to measure distances and clearances behind the panel, and to confirm my suspected lack of clearance between the control stick grips and the panel.
It really starts to look like an airplane cockpit with the screens in place! Unfortunately, as I suspected, the stick grips are just touching the screen bezel in their forward most position. I’ll need to shorten the sticks by approximately 2 inches to allow them to clear the bottom of the panel.
Panel and G3X screens temporarily installed. I didn’t install the G5, G750, autopilot, or switch panels, as the main concern is the space behind these G3X screensThe space where the remote mount modules will be installed. This is the passenger side
Over the last few days I’ve been researching different approaches to locating the various remote mount equipment that comes with the G3X system I’m installing in the airplane. The wiring harness and panel itself have been made by an avionics shop. The decisions I need to make are, where to locate the various equipment, and how to mount it on, or around, the sub panel. I decided to make some cardboard mock-ups of the components so I can work out clearances and try different options. I measured each component that needs to be installed, and then used some scrap cardboard to make each of the boxes.
Last night I started by locating the main wiring hardness that connects all of the components together, and connects to the fuselage wiring harness. The hardness itself is extensive, and heavy, and just untangling it and orienting it correctly took a few minutes. Once I had it in about the right place I zip tied it to the bottom of the panel. As I start installing the components, I can start connecting the pieces together.
Right now I’m still missing the actual panel plate and a few components. Still, I should be able to make a decision on where and how everything will be mounted, and then I can start fabricating some trays and/or brackets.
Most of the remote-mount boxes that need to fit behind the panelTrying to organize the main wiring harness. I was able to get this sorted out and temporarily zip tied in approximately the right place
Tonight I painted the canopy fairing and peeled off the tape that forms the aft edge. for the most part it came out ok, but I was a little disappointed in the way the tape broke up on the aft edge as I peeled it away. I’m left with sections of jagged paint where small pieces of the electrical tape are still trapped under the aft edge of the fairing. I will need to carefully go over the edge to remove the pieces of tape.
Tonight I finished sanding the canopy fairing. Over the weekend I had given it one more coat of high build primer and picked up some more 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. I also happened across a curved sanding block with a radius of 4 inches, which is exactly the radius I needed.
The sanding went well and I am pleased with how it has turned out. I taped off the area that needs paint and will paint with a 2k primer (once it arrives in the mail). I opted for a spray can primer because I feel the spray pattern tends to be better than when I use my own spray gun system.
My biggest concern with the fairing right now is whether the tape, which forms the aft edge, will come away cleanly from the very thin layer of resin and fiberglass. will find out next week sometime.
Wrapping up the final sanding of the canopy fairingTaped off area to paint
Today I installed the LED light strip on the glare shield. I bought a cheap red LED light strip from Amazon, so I’m not sure how well the strip will hold up in the long term. To make replacement easy I installed some d-sub pins and left a service loop held down by the Velcro.
Before I installed the light strip I tested the lights to make sure they worked with a 9V battery, then cut the light strip to size.
The glare shield has a great insert for the light strip, and I had this wrapped up in no time.
I struggled to get a neat-enough looking wiring installation. My service loop for the fans adds extra wiring that needs to be held in place. I used a decent amount of spiral wrap to prevent wires from chaffing on the shop heads of the rivets. the result was ok, but not as tidy as I had hoped.
Testing the light strip. The yellow lighting is an artifact of the camera, the light strip is red (note the reflected red light in the plastic case).Led and fans being tested using a power supply after final install
Tonight I installed the Aircraft Specialty glare shield, wired up the canopy defrost fans and canopy lock micro switch, and prepared for the LED light switch.
I had to uninstall the fans, test them, then install the leather glare shield. Both of the fans ran fine with a 9-volt battery. The glare shield fit is absolutely perfect, including the Velcro that holds the aft edge in place. Reinstalling the fans was slightly more challenging as the screws pass through the leather, but I was able to get it done without much trouble.
Wiring up the fans, I decided to use d-sub pins to connect them, in case they ever fail and need replacement. The pins are insulated with heat shrink, so replacing them would just require carefully cutting the heat shrink, then in-pinning the fan and installing a new one.
Everything is wired into a molex connector that came with the canopy wiring kit from Vans.
The LED lighting strip isn’t here yet, but once it arrives I can install it and wrap up the canopy wiring.
Testing the fans.The d-sub pins and corresponding sockets for the fansNot a lot of space to operate, but enough to get the job done
Tonight I riveted the two pieces of the spinner mounting plate together. I was able to squeeze all of the rivets.
I then started back on the canopy. I have a few canopy jobs to complete; wiring, leather glare shield install, canopy fairing final sanding and painting, and then the guide pins.
I started with the canopy lock micro switch. When closed and locked, the micro switch is depressed, closing the circuit and sending a signal to the panel. In the event the canopy is not locked, a warning appears on the panel.
The wiring should have been easy, just check the switch, install two spade terminals, and it’s done. Unfortunately I the process I found that one of the wires is caught somewhere in the channel inside the canopy rail. Luckily the wire is still making a good connection, but I couldn’t feed the excess wire into the channel. I ended up shortening up the wire and messing around, but it worked out in the end. Anyway, the black wire is the one that is jammed somewhere.
Today I unboxed the propeller, which has been sitting in its original shipping box for about a year. I wanted to verify I had everything, and to see how it all fits together. I also decided not to install it right now, as my panel is coming soon, and I’ll be working on that next. Once I’m done with the panel, and all associated wiring, I’ll come back to the engine, prop, and the cowling.
I started working on the spinner mounting plate, which needs some match drilling and cutting to get the two pieces aligned. I managed to get all the shaping done, and to spray a coat of primer on it.
Propeller unboxedThe two parts of the spinner mounting plate, before drilling and trimmingMatch-drilling the two pieces
Today I installed the “red cube” (fuel flow transducer), various cushion clamps, the wiring for the starter, and the alternator.
The red cube was installed per the plans on top of the exhaust. Some people have reported issues with the heat effecting the transducer, relocating to the engine mount. I decided to stick with the vans plans and hope for the best.
There are many cushion clamps needed in the engine compartment, and I installed a bunch of them. Most of the clamps are arranged in a pair, where one clamps to the engine mount, and the other attaches to the wiring that needs supporting. They are joined together with a bolt. others mount to the engine itself, and these require removing a bolt or screw, and then reinstalling with the clamp in the washer stack. In two places on either side of the crank case, the bolts are too short to install the clamp, and I’ll need to buy some longer bolts. I’ve put a reminder on the engine so I can buy some later.
Then I moved onto the wiring for the starter, which was simply installing the wires into some of the clamps, connecting them to the starter motor, and installing some boots.
With that done I installed the alternator. This was fairly easy, but I couldn’t find my .041 stainless safety wire so I couldn’t finish the job. Everything is finger tight right now, and I’ll torque it down and safely wire once my shipment comes in.
Red cube installed in the standard locationSome of the cushion clampsA safety label for the starterWiring the starter motorStarter wired, torqued, and boots installedThe alternator installed temporarily for now
Last night and tonight I worked on installing various engine fittings, and made the bracket for the fuel flow transducer bracket.
I had been exchanging emails with Vans over the fuel pump overflow fitting. The brass sleeve they sent me didn’t fit, so I ordered a nylon one from Aircraft Spruce and that worked nicely.
